环球网时尚频道专访SCABAL定制大使 Vicente Maria

2018-09-28 15:10 环球网

Q&A实录:

1.面料是世家宝非常引以为豪的一部分,而定制服务也是品牌很看重的,想请您详细介绍下世家宝的定制服务以及定做的流程

Answer: OK. So Scabal is a world famous brand existed since the last century. It was created in 1938. However our fabrics dated from 1539. We are established in London--our flagship store is in London. And our Scabal team is started to Shanghai a flagship store in Shanghai, in China. And we have several of our tailors coming to our customers in China to deliver a customization in all our suits. So the process of Scabal is very simple: we go to a client, we meet them, we get friends with them, because it’s all about getting to know our customers. Then the next process will be understanding his body, understanding his style. And then we will show our 5000 fabrics to him for him to choose which one is more suitable for his body and for the occasion. After that, so many customizations can be done. There are over 200 customizations from selecting the buttons, selecting the lapel, selecting the lining...there are many things to choose. I think that’s one of the main reasons why Scabal really beats any ready-to-wear brand in the market. Some of the brands, well, they are just focusing on their digital process, they have their products, and then clients just go and click, and then they will be receiving it. That’s the point. However we do it differently. We set up a time and an appointment, and then we get to know him, we do fashion style consultation, and then after four weeks we will deliver the product to the client in China. So I think the key here is: ready-to-wear might be something faster, but here with our bespoke array, what we do is we adapt ourselves to the client’s needs any time.

答:世家宝是一个始于1938年的世界知名品牌。但事实上,我们早在1539年就开始制作面料了。我们的品牌在伦敦创立,我们的旗舰店也位于伦敦。我们在中国的旗舰店位于上海。我们派遣了几位裁缝师到中国为客户量身定制西装。世家宝的定制流程很简单:首先我们要去拜访客户,跟客户见面,并成为朋友——因为了解客户非常重要。下一步就是要了解客户的体型和着装风格。然后我们再为客户展示我们的5000种面料,让客户选择哪一种面料最适合他的体型和即将出席的场合。最后我们再为客户进行多种定制。可定制项目多达200余种,从纽扣到翻领,再到内衬,可谓面面俱到。我认为这是世家宝能够超越市场上其他成衣品牌的原因之一。有一些品牌,他们只关注电子购物流程。他们有自己的产品,客户只需要上网点击一下,然后就会收到产品。这才是重点。然而我们的做法却不一样。我们会和客户约个时间见面,我们必须了解他们的需求,提供时尚风格咨询服务,然后在四周之后将我们的产品交给中国客户。所以我认为关键是,虽然制作成衣是一个较快的过程,但是我们在定制系列服装时会随时调整,以满足客户的需求。

2.品牌已经建立了80年,您认为品牌最大的变化是什么?

Answer: Well, the brand is always pursuing innovation. We have been asking for our customers, and we ask ourselves, how we can improve things? So I remember one of the most interesting facts of our brand was the fact of producing the bunches. Before and in previous centuries, tailors would be carrying these long fabrics to the market, so they would be choosing the fabrics. What Scabal did, I think (it) was very remarkable, was creating the bunches. The bunches is this booklet. When you will be passing, and you can see all the fabrics. This is something very familiar for all of us now. But back in the days it really changed everything, it changed the game, because we could be bringing more than one hundred, two hundred fabrics at the same time, and customers would be having lots of options to choose from. However I think there are many other changes in the company. They are remarkable to mention. I personally think that including diamond pieces in a fabric is something amazing and gold. Our customers and clients in China would definitely love this new techniques and this new fabric style we can offer to them at this point. These are some of them. But I would say we are always delivering something new, and we are working on many new things for this year. I will mention that in a little while. Our main target this year would be showing a Dali fabrics, which will be something astonishing for the Chinese audience. I think as soon as we are ready to deploy our fabrics, people will love them. But let’s wait for it.

答:我们的品牌始终都在追求创新。长期以来我们一直都在问客户和自己同样的问题:我们怎样才能做得更好?记忆中关于我们品牌的最有趣的一件事是制作面料手册。几个世纪以前,裁缝师们会把长长的面料搬运到市场供客户选择。而世家宝的办法则是制作面料手册,我认为这很了不起。面料手册就是一本小册子,当你路过的时候就能看到所有的面料了。这是我们今天很熟悉的一种销售方法,然而在过去,这个方法改变了一切,改变了整个行业,因为我们能够将一两百多种面料一次性呈现在客户面前,客户将有很多选择。除此之外,我认为公司里还有很多其他的变化也很了不起。我个人认为在面料上加入钻石和黄金是一个不同凡响的好主意。我们的中国客户肯定会喜欢这个新技术,我们现在就可以为他们提供这种新型面料。我刚才所说的只是其中的一些变化。但是我认为我们一直都在创新,今年我们在许多方面都在实行创新。这一点我稍后将谈到。我们今年的主要目标就是展示达利面料,它一定会让中国客户感到惊艳。我认为一旦我们准备好提供这种面料,它们就将应得客户的喜爱。让我们拭目以待吧。

3.在改良中也是加入了钻石,黄金等贵重的原材料,哪些人群会选择这类的面料呢?以及中国的人群会不会比较多?

Answer : OK. These very exclusive fabrics are usually addressed to people who want to stand out, who have lots of suits in the past, and they belong to certain circles--I would be saying royal families or Hollywood stars. They are classically our customers in this regards. However, not everybody needs to go through these exclusive ones. We at Scabal have lots of fabrics for everyone, because we believe that dressing well is not a matter of your economic resources, it’s all about a matter of attitude and elegance. Your clothing represents what you are.

答:好的。这些非常独特的面料通常会吸引想要脱颖而出的人,他们过去有很多西装,属于某些圈子——可能是王室成员或好莱坞明星。这些人通常是我们的典型客户。然而并非每个人都需要这些独特的面料。世家宝的面料是面向所有客户的,因为穿着是否得体并不取决于你的经济状况,而是取决于你的态度和优雅程度。你的着装代表你的一切。

Answer: Exclusiveness is something that we really care at Scabal. We have different suits and fabrics to deliver to our clients, we have, as you said, the golden ones, we have the diamond, we have Lapis Lazuli, we have Vicuna, we have very exclusive fabrics for our clients, and that’s something that we want to focus on because in China people have seen many different fabrics, many different exclusive luxurious products, but these things are only things we can only deliver (only we can deliver). And why we do this? (It’s) because our customers have been asking us, (it’s) not something we only come up with, it’s something we have been requested: what can you guys do at Scabal that is different, that is exclusive? So through our innovation techniques and through our advanced mindset, we have been pushing ultimate high-end fabric for our Chinese customers. This includes, as I mentioned, the Lapis Lazuli, the Diamond Chip, the golden ones. And I think these ones are fabrics that Chinese have not been seeing in history, so they will be related to people in Hollywood, people in the royal families. I believe that for certain occasions beyond business or golf or holidays these fabrics can really meet our clients’ demand in many ways.

答:世家宝非常重视独特性。我们可以给用户提供不同的西装和面料,正如您所说,我们还提供镶有黄金、钻石以及青金石的面料,而且我们还有骆马毛面料,这些面料都非常独特,我们非常重视这一点。虽然在中国,人们已经见过许多不同的面料,甚至是很多独特的奢侈面料,但这些面料只有我们才能提供。为什么我们要这么做呢?因为我们的客户一直在向我们提出这样的要求,这些设计并不是我们自己想出来的,而是客户要求我们制作的:世家宝能不能做些独特的东西?因此,通过我们极具创新的技术和富有前瞻性的思维方式,我们一直在为中国客户推出终极高端面料。正如我之前提到的那样,这包括镶入青金石、碎钻和黄金作为装饰。而且我认为这些是中国人以前从未见过的面料,他们将与好莱坞明星和皇室成员穿着同样的面料。我相信,在商业往来、高尔夫球场、假期或其他场合下,这些面料在很多方面都能切实满足客户的需求。

Answer: I can just go straight to the point, and you can do some cutting. Our customers also really are interested in what to wear in weddings. Brides as we know they really focus on the beautiful wedding dresses, but what about the man? The man also needs to wear something very special. Here in Asia, we are pushing our ceremonial fabrics, and these ceremonial fabrics include very exclusive and very luxurious elements such as the diamond chips. I think having a nice tuxedo grey, white or even maybe a midnight blue with some diamond chips, with some beautiful pants and matching shoes can deliver a fantastic outfit matching to the excellence of the bride. So we can do some balancing between the beauty of the bright white and the handsome man maybe possibly wearing a black tuxedo. Likewise, I would want to say that here in Asia, in China we can see how younger generations are very interested in the precious stones, especially the diamonds. So sometimes you can see them wearing rings, sometimes you can see them wearing beautiful watches while even in the cars, but there is something missing. This part can be our Scabal suits with our diamonds. So you imagine, well, how cool it would be to have so many precious stones everywhere, but how about your body? Matching that is something that only Scabal can do.

答:我可以直接切入正题,你可以做一些裁剪。我们的客户对结婚礼服也很感兴趣。我们知道新娘们非常喜欢穿着漂亮的婚纱,但是新郎们怎么穿呢?新郎们也需要穿一些很特别的服饰。在亚洲,我们正在推广我们的礼服面料,包括非常独特和奢侈的元素,如碎钻。我认为新郎穿上漂亮的灰色、白色、甚至是午夜蓝镶钻无尾礼服,再配上一条好看的裤子和一双合适的鞋子,看起来会非常帅,可以配得上新娘的华丽婚纱。因此,为了和新娘明亮的白色之美相称,新郎也可以穿上黑色无尾礼服。同样,我认为在亚洲,在中国,我们可以看到年轻人对宝石,特别是对钻石非常感兴趣。有时候你可以看到他们虽然戴着戒指,甚至是漂亮的手表,但好像还差点什么。这一部分可以由世家宝钻石西装来弥补。所以试想一下,衣服上镶满了宝石看起来是多么酷,但是你的体型如何?只有世家宝才能提供适合你体型的西装。

4.世家宝刚刚为杨烁先生提供了定制的量体,在这个过程中有什么有趣的故事吗?

Answer: Well firstly I want to say that having that experience with Mr. Yang was a fantastic one. He was a very kind, fun client to work with. So surprisingly in Asia bodies are not exactly the same as in Europe. But the beautiful story was that Mr. Yang has such a strong constitution. He, I can see, he works out a lot, and his body really demonstrates that health is a very important thing these days in China. You can see he is very well built with lots of muscles, and I am sure the suit we are crafting for him will be a fantastic one. Having said that, well, we have to go through the occasion. It was the wedding. I am not allowed to mention many things about the wedding, but we know there is gonna be 6-7pm in the evening, it’s gonna be in a place where weather is gonna be very pleasant--a bit hot possibly. And according to this scenario--the body, the occasion, the time, we could go through the fabrics. I selected one. He thought it was the most appropriate one. We also suggested a few ones. But he had his mind really turned to one direction. And when our clients are really certain about what they want, we only want to push it, and we will deliver a very professional product. So if they have suggestions, if they have customization ideas, we say “yes”, but only we can deliver it professionally. That’s our goal and our principle here.

答:首先,我想说的是,与杨先生见面是一次很令人难忘的经历。他是一个非常和善、有趣的客户。令人惊讶的是,亚洲人的体型跟欧洲并不完全相同。但杨先生的体格却非常健壮,这非常好。我能看出来他经常锻炼身体,他的体格确实证明了时下保持健康在中国是非常重要的。你可以看到他的肌肉非常发达,相信我们为他设计的西装将会非常棒。虽然如此,但我们的西装必须适合特定的场合,也就是婚礼。我不能透露关于婚礼的很多细节,但我们知道晚上婚礼将在下午6点到7点举行,举办婚礼的地方气候非常宜人,但可能会有点热。我们根据这些场景——体型、场合以及时间来选择面料。我选了一种面料,他认为这是最合适的。我们还看了一些别的面料,但他的想法已经定了下来。当我们的客户对他们想要的东西非常确定时,我们也会很赞成,我们将提供非常专业的产品。因此,如果他们提出自己的建议,如果他们有定制的想法,我们也会赞成,但是只有我们可以专业地提供定制服装。这是我们的目标和原则。

5.杨烁先生是否符合您对绅士的定义?以及您如何定义绅士?

Answer: That’s a very beautiful question to ask. A gentleman in the back centuries represented owning and belonging to a family that had noble titles. That is in the European culture. Nowadays, we understand gentleman as a modern concept. It’s obvious the clothes you wear that’s very important. And the fitting and the elegance that’s obvious very important. But being a gentleman is the decision every man has to make, because when you are born, you are a boy or a girl that’s a question of luck. Being a man or a boy is a matter of age, but being a gentleman is a matter of decision. And modern gentlemen have the right attitude to let others shine, to get along with others, to let the women be special, to know how to interact with other people to drink, to eat. They are literate. They are excellent in their jobs. All those things I have said I think it matches perfectly to Mr. Yang. He is a real gentleman of China, and I am very glad that I have the chance to work with him.

答:这个问题问的非常好。几个世纪之前的绅士代表拥有并属于一个贵族家庭。这是欧洲文化中的观念。如今,我们将绅士理解为一种现代概念。很明显,你的着装非常重要。而穿着得体和姿态优雅显然也非常重要。所有的男人都必须决定自己是否要成为一位绅士,因为当你出生时,你是男孩还是女孩是由运气决定的;你是男人还是男孩是由年龄决定的,但是否要当一位绅士则是由你自己的意愿决定的。现代绅士要有正确的态度,懂得把光芒让给别人,与他人和睦相处,懂得女士优先,知道如何与他人一起畅饮、共享美食,他们有文化,在工作上也非常出色。我所说的这些特点都与杨先生完全吻合。他是一位真正的中国绅士,我很高兴能有机会跟他合作。

6.如果你想像詹姆斯邦德一样潇洒有型,像奥巴马一样儒雅,但预算有限,那您会建议怎么选择面料?如何建议普通人进行定制服务?

Answer:We at Scabal don’t really care so much about people’s money. I think beauty is inside of everyone. And as I said before, attitude is an essential aspect, factor for everyone to carry on in their personal life. So choosing the right fabric is very important. That’s for sure. We will be our consultant in this fashion brand we have. So choosing the right fabric is one thing. But the right fitting would be another way. I will also want to explain that it’s all a matter of…(interruption) We go again. I want to say it in a different way. OK. In Scabal we don’t really think so much about budgets. We first look at everyone’s shape and everyone’s personality. And then by choosing the right fabric and understanding the real occasion, we will go through a fitting. Fitting is a very important thing, even more important than the money you use. So that’s why several of our own teams are here to give you the right fashion advice to look like James Bond, Mr. Obama. And combining the right fitting and the right fabric with attitude that we can definitely ensure that any gentleman can be the new China James Bond for the next days, yeah.

答:世家宝并不太关心人们的财富。我认为每个人都有内在美。正如我之前所说,态度是一个必不可少的方面,它推动所有人在生活中不断前行。因此,选择合适的面料非常重要。这是肯定的。我们将成为我们这个时尚品牌的顾问。不仅要选择合适的面料,而且衣服还要合理搭配。我还想解释一下这一切都是......(中断)我们再来一遍,我想换个方式说。好了。在世家宝,我们并不会考虑预算。我们首先看看每个人的体型和个性,然后通过选择合适的面料并了解穿着场合来进行搭配。搭配是一件非常重要的事情,甚至比花费多少更为重要。正因为如此,我们团队中的几名成员来到这里,为你们提供合理的时尚建议,让你们和詹姆斯·邦德、奥巴马先生的穿着一样得体。如果能合理搭配衣服,选择合适面料并秉持着一种时尚态度,我们绝对可以保证任何一位绅士都可以成为中国版的“詹姆斯·邦德”。

7.最后一个小问题,您最喜欢中国文化的哪方面?

Answer:OK. I have been living here in China for quite a while myself. So I have many different options to choose from. I particularly like the history of Shanghai in the 20th century, from the most populated city by foreigners in the beginning of the century with all the transformation through the Second World War and Japanese occupation, and then finally to the new system in China. I think that’s my particularly favorite part of China history. I think it’s so exciting. I have been watching lots of movies and lots of books. And despite maybe being a bit controversial, this thing I believe that is at an important time that has been shaping China’s personality in this 21st century.

答:好的。我在中国已经生活了相当长的一段时间。所以我喜欢的中国文化有很多,我尤其喜欢上海20世纪的历史,上海在20世纪初是外国人最多的城市,然后它经历了二战并曾经被日本占领,最后迎来了新中国。这是我最喜欢的一段中国历史,它很激动人心。我看了很多关于这时期的电影和书籍。虽然可能会有一些不同意见,但是我认为这个时期是塑造21世纪中国特质的一个重要时期。

Answer:Being a gentleman is a matter of a learning curve. You start from certain budget. But you don’t want to spend so much money to go to baseball when you actually don’t have the knowledge. For that, you need to experience yourself to make mistakes. Nobody is perfect when they (are) born. So we suggest for people who are not well-experienced--maybe they don’t have enough budget--to go through our ready-to-wear line. They can start to experiment and feel themselves whether they fit into this line of clothes. And once they are ready, they can look after all their options. But for me, I think having the right clothes with the right attitude is definitely a good combination for all our customers that want to initiate themselves into this sartorial fashion and stylist world. I think at Scabal we have, we can cover all ranges of customers, and we don’t want to dismiss those customers, actually we welcome them, and we have an option for them and an open door they can use, which is the ready-to-wear line. And we welcome them to go on the website and check what we have there to offer. I am sure they will like it.

答:成为一个绅士需要经历一个学习曲线,你的预算始于某个水平。就比如当你不了解棒球的时候,你就不会为棒球花费太多钱。要成长和学习,就难免会犯错。没有人一出生就是完美的。所以我们建议经验不够丰富的人——也许他们没有足够的预算购买我们的成衣系列,我们建议他们可以开始尝试和体验一下自己是否适合这一系列的衣服。一旦他们准备好了,就可以进行合理的选择了。但对我而言,我认为拥有合适的服装和良好的态度对于希望进入时尚界和造型界的客户来说非常重要。我认为在世家宝,我们可以为所有客户提供服务,我们不想把这些客户赶跑,实际上我们欢迎他们,我们有适合他们的产品,会为他们打开一扇门,这就是我们的成衣系列。我们欢迎他们访问我们的网站并查看我们能够提供的服务。我相信他们肯定会喜欢。

责编:付雷
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